Відео

The exhaust system was off my truck as I remember. If you are talking about the pipe involved with the AS (air suction) system, it might be in the way a little but I can't remember for sure.

Are you working on a V6 setup? On my truck it's the 22RE so there is just the exhaust manifold that runs down along the left side of the vehicle - at the time of removing my gearbox I believe all that stuff was out already.

I bought mine at Napa Auto... any of the re-manufactured ones out there should work fine. I just did a quick search on google and this one came up at Amazon.. maybe it might work? www.amazon.com/Compatible-1990-1995-1989-1995-Replaces-22250-35050/dp/B0CFLFCYST/

@@ray5961 thank you…maybe I’ll give it a try. $98 isn’t too bad if it’s a dud.

@@ray5961 thank you again, I just ordered the MAF sensor & the rubber gasket. I think mine is siliconed on. Question: should I remove the negative battery lead to reset the ECU before starting up the engine with the new MAF, or will the ECU adjust on its own?

@@DePalma. Pull the 15A EFI fuse in the fuse box under the hood for a couple minutes, that will reset the ECU - won't hurt. Takes the car about 4-5 days to re-trim things.

@@ray5961 ok will do. Should ECU be reset before starting up with new maf?

Thanks! I did end up replacing my motor mounts - I think the old ones actually might have been better haha. But there are new ones in there now.

Yeah, I was shocked when I pulled it out thinking it was some type of MAF sensor only to see the guts rip out in my hands :)

Took me about 4 years to build my truck to how I wanted it. As far as the motor stuff and all that.. not sure, maybe 9 months or so. It's been a long never ending project lol. I had to rebuild the motor twice.

what size tires are you running? A/C would be nice right? :)

No, you have to oil specific locations prior to use

are you running with or without a catalytic converter? Sometimes the issue you are describing can be caused by modifications that improve flow (such as a camshaft, removing the cat, etc.).. what happens is under sudden throttle going to WOT, the mixture goes very lean and it takes the ECU a few seconds to get back to a better air fuel ratio - I have a video which addresses a mod I did to compensate for this exact issue here ua-cam.com/video/2I8BEoQxemM/v-deo.htmlsi=PYgKtrvWHgDqZFV- you might also want to run some fuel injector cleaner through your tank (I like Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner). Advancing the timing to 7 degrees from 5 can also help a little. Try to keep in mind that the 22RE isn't a super powerful motor and the factory ECU isn't designed around high performance road racing as much as smog and fuel efficiency.

Thanks.. just a lot of cleaning with gasoline and making sure no dirt builds up

Thanks. I don't have any specific videos for removing the EGR system, but there are some out there. What's the EGR issue you are having?

It's probably something which broke off some place and got into the cooling system. On mine, when I first took it apart, I found a bunch of RTV sealant stuck in there from when the previous owner(s) did some random shit. Not uncommon.. just clean it out and put it all back together basically.

I put a tiny bit of grease, but not much.

@@ray5961 gotcha, thanks. What kind of grease?

@@bg1617 I use this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/

I'm running this one here from LCE - www.lceperformance.com/Hi-Torque-Starter-22R-RE-8-93-95-P-U-4Run-p/1080150.htm - but the specific stater they sent me is made by Denso and the part # is 280-0109.

I might be able to provide a video showing kind of the overview sure. Happy to answer any questions you have in the meantime.

@@ray5961 that'd be sick! One quick follow up: I'm considering hooking up a fuel pressure gauge via the Cold-Start injector, but you put yours just after the filter. I'd be curious to hear your thought process behind that decision

@@adamsmiddy Yeah I installed mine off the back of the the connection which comes off the fuel filter (kinda back there where the transmission bell housing is). The only logic was to tuck it back there out of the way of things. You could definitely tap off the cold-start injection stuff, it's just that the fittings there are smaller and more delicate and sometimes to remove the upper plenum it requires unhooking those. Originally I was gonna plumb it off the banjo fitting on the front of the fuel rail, but I didn't want it constantly in the way up front basically. Also, having it back there off the back side of the fuel filter makes running the wires for the sender a bit cleaner. I can't remember if I bought a fitting from Summit Racing or if I drilled and tapped the existing banjo bolt for 1/8 NPT. I wanna say I drilled my own, but I can't remember for sure. I think they sell ones already made on Summit.

The high idle stuff is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) - I have some videos which explain it on the channel but basically engine coolant (once it heats up) causes the valve to shut down and lower the idle. If the idle stays high, check the small hoses running to and from the IAC valve (just under the throttle body) and see if both hoses are heating up. If not, there could be a coolant blockage some place in there, which is preventing normal operation.

Yes, injectors 1 and 3 fire in unison and then 2 and 4 fire together; the injector wires merge in the harness under there - so the lead for 1 & 3 have a single wire running back to the ECU and same goes for 2 & 4. If you are seeing injector #1 working but not #3, then either there is an electrical connector issue @ #3 or the injector itself is stuck. Did you happen to flow test the injectors before installing them or at least hit them all w/ 12 volts to see if they were all clicking on and off?

He doesn’t have ac. I’m sure there videos out there

I'm in the process of recharging the A/C on my girlfriend's Lexus ES300, but my truck doesn't have A/C. ChrisFix has a great video on recharging A/C systems, but as far as rebuilding the one on the 1989-95 pickup, I wouldn't wish that job on anyone :) Better to just roll the windows down in my opinion.

The electric can is just on/off via a temp switch on the top of the thermostat housing. I have a 40 amp circuit breaker in the mix also.

Yes, pulling the motor would have been better. I just didn't have my hoist setup at the time and things went from a small project to a bigger project as time went on.

Yes, the W55 is the gearbox which came in my truck originally (and most if not all 2WD pickups)... in my case, someone had swapped in a W58 at some point.

@@ray5961thank you. I’d like to find a back up and store for the future Or should I just do a rebuild if my goes?

@@helloitsmehb Gearbox video has a nice video on rebuilding the W58 - check that out. If you can find a W58 w/ cast iron center plate, that would be a nice backup to have. They are pretty stout inside, so usually not much of a rebuild it required.

Good point. These blocks are just the ones for moderately accurate work and/or for setup kinda work. For precision calibration stuff I have Mitutoyo Cera blocks, carbide and also I think one or two other nice quality (and almost never touched) iron sets. But yeah, I probably made them slightly less accurate with all the polishing :)

yeah, no good comes from the stretched timing chain stuff :)

I used a mount similar to this one here on ebay - www.ebay.com/itm/134845428310 - although mine was metal and this one appears to be 3D printed. The person I bought my mount from no longer seemed to be selling on ebay. Under the radio are VDO gauges. I have a video on the channel which details them here ua-cam.com/video/epudL19cTk4/v-deo.htmlsi=KiBbj7q0ycwyxckh

I get around 18.5 to 20 MPG around town - depending on how hard I push the truck. On long highway drives, usually it's around 24 +/- 1 MPG - If there is no wind and level ground or slightly favorable incline, I can sometimes get up into the 27-28 MPG range as long a I keep it under 85 MPH.

I believe the better gas mileage claim has mostly to do with the fact that the exhaust fumes are largely inert in nature, therefore they displace some amount of air/fuel mixture that would otherwise be burnt. My understanding is that it also helps reduce cylinder temps a bit (since there is less combustion mixture taking place). How well it all works or how much it improves gas mileage is anyone's guess.

I love mine and use it every morning and several times per day to make espressos and cappuccinos. It's a very simple / manual machine and easy to understand. Boiler is small so heat up time is super fast. Steam wand is excellent - I flip it into steam mode and purge water out into a glass jar, then toggle in and out of steam mode again and steam half and half over here a lot. The entire machine is simple, basic and a dream to use. The upgrade to the 54mm portafilters really makes a huge difference. My machine likes dark roast beans mostly.

It's a factory Toyota wiring manual. You can find them on ebay usually. Search your model and year and "electrical manual". They usually have a silver cover.

Well, B+ ties into the ECU and a few other points, but basically think of it like a direct lead back to the +12 VDC on your battery. Instead of checking continuity on B+ what you really wanna do is confirm that you see 12 volts DC between B+ and the ground / chassis points when the ignition is switched to "ON". You'll see continuity across B+ because it's tied into the battery, the fuel injectors, etc. and some of those components (and the car battery itself) have copper and/or chemical pathways that meet - just like you'll see continuity across the light bulbs due to the filament inside them (unless they are LED's). What you're seeing sounds normal yeah. As long as you have +12 volts DC on B+ in the diagnostic box when the ignition key is ON, then that should be good.

@@ray5961 thanks for ur details, ur a good teacher.

@@forgetfulme1719 Thanks. Anytime!

lol haha still alive. Truck has a new oil pan :-)

It's hard to say, but make sure the engine is up to full operating temp for one thing (this will help ensure the IAC valve has fully closed). Also, when you do jump TE and E1 what base timing are you seeing on your timing light? It should be around 5 degrees BTDC when jumpered and then when you remove the jumper it should pop up to around 12 degrees approximately. I run mine at 7 degrees and when I pull the jumper I think it goes up to around 13 degrees or so. I run my idle at 850-900 RPM's usually.

Yeah, it doesn’t change at all Timing mark is on 12 degrees TPS is adjusted New timing chain New harmonic balancer and still the same

@@estuardoleiva5647 Sounds like you could have the camshaft off by 1 tooth perhaps. On the camshaft gear, it's 36 teeth, so each tooth is a 10 degree error. Who did the timing chain install?

My mechanic did the timing chain So you think the distributor is one tooth off ? Thankyou for your help buddy

@@estuardoleiva5647 It's easy to do accidentally if you aren't familiar w/ the 22RE and/or you don't work on them all that often. The alignment marks on the camshaft gear can be a little bit confusing at first. It is also easy to accidentally slip a link on the chain during installation (depending on how you do the job). Here's a video which shows a bit of information on alignment - ua-cam.com/video/MnP3DcsUf7g/v-deo.html - try adjusting the distributor as far as it will go and see if you can get back to 5 degree initial timing when the Te an E1 are jumpered up.

Thank you for the suggestion... perhaps when I build up my 3RZ motor I will do a video like that for the channel

Thanks!

generally eBay is where you would find something like that.

That is just one of the great mysteries of the universe :) I'm not super familiar with the setup on the 86, but if you wanna send me some pics to the email address on the channel, I'm happy to take a look and see if I can make heads or tails out of anything. You're referring to the small 4mm hoses that connect off on the left side of the throttle body right? I have another video on my channel where I discuss the routing of all those hoses in more depth by the way.

@ray5961 I'm talking about on the top of throttle body there's 4 vac lines all the same size. A cluster of 3 then another one more towards radiator. I only have the cluster of 3

This video here gives a pretty good run down of what everything does - ua-cam.com/video/rcKjFEYHk28/v-deo.htmlsi=PuAr1EBmNDWqj7VC - maybe your truck doesn't have an EVAP system on it? The 3 main lines on my truck are all related to the EGR system and the vacuum modulator. The 4th is to draw fumes out of the EVAP canister.

@ray5961 I uploaded a video with my problem please take a look when you have time

Running great. I'm swapping a new oil pan on right now actually.

@ray5961 Thank you for the great videos and for sharing your expertise.

@@Greenrosettas Thanks a lot! I appreciate it. Hopefully more videos coming soon.